In the Valley of the Moon

The Sonoma Valley has been home to a number of interesting historical figures: Peanuts cartoonist Charles M. Schulz; horticulturalist R Burbank, whose work at the turn of the century provided the foundation for farming and gardening throughout California; and author Jack London, who's book "Valley of the Moon" took its title from the English translation of the Aboriginal word "Sonoma".

Driving through Sonoma, the challenge is to decide which wineries to hit, which to miss. The wineries know that, and many have taken to offering entertainment beyond wine tasting: a castle, complete with torture chamber and moats; shops and cafés; and other products to complement the wines.

B.R. Cohn Estates
Here's what I mean. What brought us to B.R. Cohn? Besides the fact that the wines have a good reputation, we were hooked by the promise of an olive oil tasting room, too. Olive oil is the other gourmet product produced in Napa and Sonoma, and travelling with a chef, well, there's room for compromise in every relationship...

It just got better after we arrived. First, Caroline fell in love with Moose, the 10 year old lab-bulldog cross whose main job is to lie in the middle of the tasting room and have his belly rubbed.

Second, the history of the winery. Owner B.R. Cohn made his fortune as manager of the Doobie Brothers. While still young, in the early 70's, he bought some vineyards and sold fruit to other wineries. The property's vines had a great reputation, and Cohn eventually made the decision to start making his own wines. He converted the family house to offices and tasting room, hired a winemaker, and launched his label.

B.R. Cohn Woody White
A multi-vintage wine blended from Symphony and Chardonnay, it has a pineapple and green apple nose, but tastes of sweet apples and tropical fruit. It has a long fruity finish. It's very slightly off-dry.

B.R. Cohn Chardonnay 2007
With pear, apple and creamy vanilla aromas, it has a very light toasty finish and a crisp, mouthfeel.

B.R. Cohn "Silver Label" Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
A full-flavoured Cab, it has lots of dark cherry and black berry aromas, with tobacco and black pepper. Richly flavoured and full-bodied, it offers tastes of dark berries and a cigar box finish. I liked it, but found it almost too much Cab, and commented that I thought it would be even better used in a Bordeaux-style blend. The tasting room manager, Frank, brought out...

Doobie Red 2006
Produced mainly for an upcoming charity concert by the Doobie Brothers, it doesn't have a B.R. Cohn label. But it's great! Produced with the same Cab as above, it's blended with Merlot and Cabernet Franc from the same vintage. Aromas of alcohol, plum, and ripe red cherries, it has complex black cherry and sour cherry flavours, along with tobacco and a coffee finish. I suggested that the winery re-brand it after the concert and offer it as a serious label.

B.R. Cohn Cabernet Sauvignon Estate 2005
The "flagship wine", this has ripe cherry, blackberry and alcohol aromas. It has a rich blackberry and smoke flavour, with high tannins and a long, long finish.

B.R. Cohn Pinot Noir "Russian River Valley" 2005
Made from fruit grown on an estate-owned vineyard in Mendocino, it has a nice raspberry and sweet cherry nose, and a spicy cherry flavour with just a bit of toast on the finish.