Sunday, September 14, 2008

The Billionaire's Vinegar


I just finished Benjamin Wallace's recounting of the sale of a 1787 Chateau Lafite, which bore the initials of Thomas Jefferson.

The record-making sale ($156,000 USD) and subsequent investigations into the bottle's authenticity are just jumping-off points for Wallace, however. He uses the opportunity to bring us into the world of rare old-world wines, their buyers, sellers, tasters and critics.

Meticulously well-researched - Wallace was apparently given access to the private papers of almost everyone involved, not to mention a wealth of interviews with people who would have been better off hiding their involvement in shame - almost no-one in the rare wine business is spared.

Wallace's writing is excellent, and he tells the tale by following the story of each of its players. I often laughed out loud with his descriptions, and was shocked at some of the antics of the world's wealthiest and best known wine personalities.

I was particularly surprised at just how involved some top wine writers are in critiquing and promoting wines with questionable provenance - people who write the text books I'm using in my studies, for whom I've had the highest regard. Clearly, there is an all too cosy relationship between dealers and writers.

Therefore, let me make this clear: any dealers, winemakers, or auctioneers who think that they may buy my favourable reportage with a weekend of tasting 150-200 year old wines should immediately contact me at the address listed on my profile page. Looking forward to it!

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