Thursday, July 24, 2008

Sugarbush Winery


Following such a successful start, we headed down the road to our next destination. But we got sidetracked, a little, by a sign for a winery not on our list. Sugarbush is a new start-up, only two years old and operated out of the basement of its hardworking owners. Generally, we sympathize with someone so bold as to enter one of the world's most challenging industries, and happily gave their products a try. The Sugarbush wines aren't quite at the point yet that we'd serve them to our clients, but there are certainly some worth drinking. That said, Caroline and I both noted a predominant sulphur aroma for every wine.

Sugarbush Gamay VQA 2007
While the initial nose was of yeast and sulphite, aromas of plum and red cherry are also present. Very sour on the palette, there's some nice tobacco, too.

Sugarbush Almost Red 2007
This aptly named rosé is 90% Cabernet Franc, 10% Chardonnay. Unfortunately, it was served right out of a bar fridge and the low temp put a chill on the aromas and tastes. Eventually, I found some raspberry and sour cherry on this light but innocuous product.

Sugarbush Gewurztraminer 2007
The winner among the lot, this Gewurz shows lots of fruit and sweet spice. Sweet apple, pear and peach round out the flavours, with the pear dominating the finish. Off-dry, it shows a lot of promise. So much so, we purchased a bottle for future consideration.

Sugarbush Riesling 2007
Light grapefruit and mineral aromas entice, but the tastes are overly dominated by the citric acidity, which extends into the long grapefruit finish. It might be nice with soda.

Sugarbush The Other Red 2006
Interesting for the fact that it is 100% Zweigelt, picked at the nearby Robert Thomas Vineyards. Oz Clarke tells me (don't you always travel with a volume of Oz Clarke?) that Zweigelt is Austria's most planted red grape, capable of high yields and an interesting peppery wine. Rather than pepper, this Zweigelt gives me sweet red fruit and a hint of leather. With medium tannins and high acidity, it's a mouthwatering curiosity that would be easily toned down by food, and bears keeping an eye on.

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