BARRA of Mendocino

In 1926, Antonio and Marie Barra left Piedmont, Italy to settle in the New World of Calpella, California. Antonio and Marie both came from wine-making families, so it was natural that they would grow grapes and make wines here, too.

Their son, Charlie, recently celebrated his 63rd grape harvest, and is still actively running the vineyards while his wife Martha manages the tasting room and the marketing operations.

Winemaker Dan Kopache, who has worked at Benziger, Kendall-Jackson and Fetzer, joined the business in time for the 2007 vintage.

We met Charlie, Martha and Dan at the tasting room for a comprehensive sampling of their products. The tasting room is gorgeous, built for a previous owner, a sparkling wine producer. It's shaped like a champagne glass, but in a tasteful way.

BARRA's vineyards are certified organic, but because they use some sulphites their wines are labelled as "using organic grapes" but aren't certified products themselves.

Almost all BARRA products are vegan, though some of their Cabernet Sauvignons have used egg whites to reduce the tannins. Dan told me that other fining agents, such as diatomaceous earth and bentonite, can help clarify a wine but won't reduce tannins.

Martha said that BARRA has recently introduced a second label, Girasole. BARRA will remain the premium label, with Girasole offering less expensive wines. For instance, Girasole wines won't have time in new French oak barrels.

These guys make a great team. From Dan's technical knowledge and easy-going manner to Charlie's rich stories and jokes ("Know why I've never missed a harvest? Because when you get a paycheque only once a year, you'd better show up!") to Martha's generosity and gentle management, we left feeling like members of the BARRA family.

In the interest of full disclosure: Team BARRA took us to lunch. We had a great time!

We also had a whole lot of wine - 16 in all, including both BARRA and Girasole products.



BARRA of Mendocino Pinot Grigio 2006
This is a great example of a Grigio - minerally, steely, with lemon and oak aromas. It's very slightly off-dry, with a lot of citrus and floral flavours. Perfect hot summer day drinking wine.

BARRA of Mendocino Pinot Blanc 2006
Pinot Blanc, a variety grown mainly in Alsace, isn't one I've tried before. According to Charlie, this comes from 50-year old vines. It has aromas of melon and pineapple, and tastes of steel and citrus. Simple but flavourful, it has a long citrus and slightly bitter finish. We liked it, and bought a couple of bottles for "further analysis".

Girasole Chardonnay 2007
Here's another nice Redwood Valley Chard - aromas of orange, minerals and flora, it's very dry with just a hint of vanilla. Unoaked, it allows the flavours of the grape and the terroir to shine.


BARRA of Mendocino Chardonnay 2005
As opposed to the Girasole above, I found this oaked Chard a bit overdone. Rich, with lots of vanilla and toast, it's for traditional California Chardonnay drinkers who like big, oaky wines.

Girasole Pinot Noir 2006
Nice cherry and alcohol aromas are met with a very light sour cherry flavour, along with rich red fruits and medium tannins. Well balanced, simple Pinot.

BARRA of Mendocino Pinot Noir 2006
Again, I found this full of rich cherry and vanilla aromas, but with the toasty notes from the oak aging. And again, I preferred the Girasole.

Girasole Sangiovese 2006
I made a mistake with this one - I didn't buy any to take home. Plums and ripe red berries, it has high acidity and high tannins, with flavours of tobacco and chocolate and a long, complex finish. Good now, another couple of years in the bottle with make it shine.


BARRA of Mendocino Sangiovese 2004
Yum. Blackberries, plums, raisins and figs, this is a rich, complex and well balanced wine ready to drink right now. OK, I should have bought THIS one, too!

Girasole Zinfandel 2006
Also from 50-year old vines, this has ripe red fruit and black pepper notes. The mouthfeel is smooth, with medium tannins and red fruit. Another nice summer drinking wine.

BARRA of Mendocino Zinfandel 2003
Raisins and cassis on the nose, coffee, chocolate and blackberries in the mouth, this really shines.

BARRA of Mendocino "59th Harvest" Pinot Noir 2004
Produced to celebrate Charlie's 59 years in the vineyard, this is a premium (now sold out, I believe) wine with a lot of subtle, complex flavours. Sweet red fruit, leather and alcohol aromas, it adds some rich chocolate notes in the mouth.

Girasole Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
The blackberry and black pepper aromas come through on the tongue, too. It's highly tannic, with a long finish.

BARRA of Mendocino Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Another winner, this has aromas of cassis, ripe red fruit and black pepper. It all comes through in the mouth, with lots of chewy tannins.

BARRA of Mendocino "59th Harvest" Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Rich chocolate and raspberry notes, this also offers earthy aromas. Very complex, very good.

BARRA of Mendocino Petite Sirah 2003
Smooth, rich jammy notes, it has very high tannins, but still a smooth, fruity finish.

BARRA of Mendocino Muscat Canelli 2006
BARRA's only dessert wine, this variation of Muscat is subtle and not too sweet, made very much in the European style. Aromas and flavours of pineapple, apple and sweet spice, it would perfectly compliment fruity-based desserts.